Frequently Asked Questions

Quick answers to common questions about our services

Frequently Asked Question

How big will a Frantoio olive tree get?
Left unpruned, a Frantoio can reach 6–8 metres tall. In a pot it’s easily maintained at 1.5–2.5 metres, and in the ground you can keep it at 3–4 metres with annual pruning.
Frantoio is a vigorous grower — expect 30–50 cm of new growth per year in Cape Town’s climate once established. Young trees may grow faster with good feeding and watering.
Yes, Frantoio is partially self-fertile, so a single tree will set some fruit. However, yields improve significantly with a pollination partner like Leccino, Pendolino, or Mission within 15–20 metres.
Typically 3–4 years from planting, though small crops can appear as early as year 2. Full production usually kicks in around year 5–6.
No — raw olives are extremely bitter due to a compound called oleuropein. They need to be cured (in brine, salt, or lye) before eating. Frantoio is primarily an oil cultivar but also makes excellent table olives when properly cured.
Absolutely — Frantoio is considered one of the gold- standard oil cultivars worldwide. It produces a complex, peppery extra virgin oil. You’ll need roughly 5–8 kg of fruit to produce 1 litre of oil.
No, it originates from Tuscany, Italy. However, it thrives in Cape Town’s Mediterranean climate, which closely mirrors its native conditions.
Can I grow Frantoio in a pot?

Yes, very successfully. Use a container of at least 60–80 litres with excellent drainage and a free-draining potting mix. Pot-grown trees stay compact and can produce well
for decades.

Full sun — at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily. In Cape
Town, a north-facing spot is ideal. Good air circulation helps prevent fungal disease.

Well-drained soil is essential — waterlogged roots will kill an
olive tree. Sandy soils are fine; clay soils should be amended with river sand and compost. Ideal pH is
6.0–8.0.

Autumn (March–May) is ideal in Cape Town, allowing roots to
establish during winter rains. Spring (August–September) also works but requires more watering
through the first summer.

For a home garden or small grove, space trees 4–6
metres apart. This allows good airflow and sunlight penetration while keeping them close enough for
cross-pollination.

How often should I water my olive tree?
Newly planted trees need deep watering once or twice a week in summer. Established trees (3+ years) need water only once a week or less in summer. In winter, Cape Town’s rainfall is usually sufficient. Potted trees dry out faster and need watering every 2–3 days in summer.
Yes — overwatering is more dangerous than underwatering. Olive trees are drought-tolerant and hate wet feet. Always let the soil dry out between waterings. If leaves are yellowing and dropping, overwatering is often the cause.
Very much so. Once established, Frantoio is remarkably drought-tolerant, making it one of the best fruit-producing trees for Cape Town’s water-conscious gardens.
What fertiliser should I use?
A balanced organic fertiliser (3:1:5 or fruit tree blend) in spring, supplemented with liquid seaweed monthly during summer. Add potassium-rich feed in late summer for fruit development. Avoid excess nitrogen.
Prune in late winter (July–August). Open the canopy to a vase shape, remove suckers and crossing branches, and never take more than 25–30% of the canopy in one season. Olives fruit on last year’s growth, so heavy pruning reduces next season’s crop.
Yes — a 5–10 cm layer of bark chips, straw, or gravel conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and regulates soil temperature. Keep mulch away from the trunk to prevent collar rot.
What are the most common pests in Cape Town?

Olive lace bug (silvery stippling on leaves), scale
insects (honeydew and sooty mould), and occasionally olive fruit fly. Neem oil and horticultural soap
handle most infestations.

Peacock spot is a fungal disease causing dark
circular spots with yellow halos on leaves. It thrives in Cape Town’s wet winters. Prevent it with copper-
based fungicide sprays in May and July, and good canopy airflow through pruning.

The most common causes are overwatering, poor
drainage, nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen or iron), or root rot. Check soil moisture first — if
soggy, reduce watering and improve drainage.

Not necessarily. Olives naturally shed some older leaves,
especially in spring as new growth emerges. However, heavy leaf drop can indicate overwatering, pest
infestation, or transplant stress. Check the basics: drainage, watering frequency, and pest activity.

When do I harvest olives in Cape Town?
Typically April–June. For green table olives, pick in March– April when firm and green. For oil or black cured olives, wait until May–June when most fruit has turned purple-black.
The simplest method is brine curing: slit each olive, soak in fresh water (changed daily) for 10 days to draw out bitterness, then transfer to a salt brine (100g salt per litre of water) for 4–6 weeks. Add herbs and lemon for flavour.
A mature in-ground Frantoio can yield 20–50 kg per year. A well-maintained potted tree typically produces 2–5 kg. Yields vary with age, pollination, pruning, and seasonal conditions.
Will the Cape Doctor damage my tree?
Young trees can be stressed by strong south-easterly winds. Provide a temporary windbreak (shade cloth on stakes) for the first 2–3 years. Mature Frantoio trees handle wind well.
Cape Town rarely experiences hard frosts, and Frantoio tolerates light frost (down to about −5°C) once established. Young trees and potted trees are more vulnerable — cover them or move pots under cover on cold nights.
Yes, though care adjustments are needed. Cooler, wetter areas (Constantia, Tokai, Southern Suburbs) need more attention to fungal prevention, while hotter, drier areas (Atlantic Seaboard, Milnerton, Blouberg) may need slightly more summer watering.